Saturday, January 21, 2012

South Africa... Not really Africa.


I am finding that it is easiest to write about my travels in a certain country after I have left that particular place.  It helps with perspective, I guess.  Spending my December vacation (it’s summer here) for three weeks in South Africa was…. relieving.  It gave me a break from the sticking-out, the harassment, the smells and the chaos. 
I was travelling with my friend Linda.  She was a great travel partner- we have opposite Travel Handicaps.  I joked that neither of us would have made it through this vacation without the other.  Where I had the memory, she had the sense of direction.  Where I was organized and could find where we put things, she made all of the plans for our lodgings… but couldn’t always find where she put information.  Where I was the driver, she was the map reader. 
South Africa, particularly the Western Cape, was the most civilized, polite country I have ever visited.  Even on the road, there are unspoken rules about passing politely, where the Passer puts on their flashers to thank the Passee and the Passee flashes their lights to say “you’re welcome.”  Well, that couldn’t be accurate.  In South Africa, they rarely say “you’re welcome”- they say “It’s a pleasure.”  How pleasing is that to hear?  Waiters, taxi drivers, the guy who holds the door for you.  They all say it.  It is such a pleasant response to “thank you,” I’m thinking of bringing it back to the states and starting an It’s A Pleasure Revolution.
I was also impressed with the state that South Africa is in with regards to how they take care of their poor.  In some towns, they were neon-vested men who would help you park.  They were energetic and tried to be as helpful as possible, even when no help was needed.  Then, when you returned to your car, they’d show you how they watched over your car to make sure no one scratched it or hurt it in any way.  Then, we learned, the expectation was to tip them the equivalent of 12 to 50 cents.  This is how these towns help to feed and employ the poor.  Linda and I fondly named these guys our Parking Angels.
In general, Linda and I spend our vacation leisurely driving from one end of the Western Cape to the other.  We saw breathtaking landscapes, little shanty towns on the side of the road (they euphemistically call “informal settlements”), meeting friendly locals that didn’t judge us for being American, being disappointed from some hostels and absolutely enchanted by some of the small town guest houses.  We stocked up on wine from our wine tour and drank it each night before dinner.
One activity that Linda and I were looking forward to was the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival.  It is, essentially, a tradition that has been carried on since slavery, when the blacks were only given one day off:  January 2.  It is, essentially, a huge parade that is put on by different communities in and around Cape Town.  Linda and I were blown away at how many people came out to see this, but when we looked closer, we realized that the only other white people there were also tourists.  The crowds were so thick surrounding the streets, Lind and I had to search hard to find a peep hole.  Each act consistently started with small children with a lot of spunk and energy.  These kids weren’t shy.  Then a big band full of horns and drums followed with spirited dancing and mind blowing face paint.  Apparently this goes from about noon to 10 PM, or later (said some).  Each group wore matching outfits with brilliant colors and umbrellas to match.  It was really interesting being at such a large event put on by and for the community.

Shortly after watching that event, Linda and I flew "home"- back to Arusha.  Arriving back at 2 AM, and having an hour drive back to campus, I reflected on my experience for the past 3 weeks and how it felt to be back.  I have to admit, it felt good to have something familiar to return to.  There was a mild sense of "home" that I felt on the drive from the air port.  There was also a sense of anticipation of the harassment, chaos, funky smells and how I am going to truly make this rough-around-the-edges place, truly, my home for two years.


Side note:
If you are reading this, I would LOVE it if you would comment!  Knowing that people are reading, and enjoying, my blogs will help me to write more often.  When you don't say anything, it feels like no one is reading.  It would brighten up my day to hear your thoughts and reactions!