Sunday, June 19, 2011

Power

Power (the electrical kind) is optional in Zanzibar.  Maybe unreliable is a better word.  The government has daily blackout periods at fairly inconsistent times and durations.  Whenever the power goes out, anyone that has been here for over a year has a story about the time Zanzibar lost power for over 3 months.  Without warning.  Makes you thankful for yet another thing a first world country can provide.  Lately, though, we had been getting less and less blackout periods, which clearly spoiled us.  So when I attended ZIFF (Zanzibar International Film Festival) which attracts thousands to the island each year to attend, we were blissfully watching the opening movie, when in the climax of the movie, the power shut off.  Typical Zanzibar.  If that happened in the states, people would be hooting and hollering, clapping, jeering, demanding for their money back for sure.  Here, the crowd just quietly waited for it to come back on.  Whenever THAT was going to happen.  We gave it half an hour and left, never seeing the end of the movie.

Another issue Zanzibar has with power is the strange dynamic between the locals to the foreigners.  Tourism is not huge in Zanzibar yet, as it still remains a bit of a world secret as such a unique paradise.  But still, there is a significant tourism industry here and the locals have adapted their behaviors to what how they believe a foreigner should be treated.  This can vary from a friendly basic conversation about where I'm from or what I'm doing here to very blunt come ons.  All of these behaviors go under the umbrella of "welcoming" the mzungu

A mzungu in Zanzibar is assumed to have money.  Dating a mzungu, I've been told many times, is seen by many men as better than dating a local.  The mzungu women are unreasonably put on a pedastal to this ridiculous height so us women have to make up stories about "my husband wouldn't be very happy if he saw you talking to me."  Not much else will get these men away.  I have strengthened my skill of being really upfront, far beyond what would be considered polite in the states, to get my point across to these men.

"Can I have your phone number?"
"No."
"Why?"
"Because I don't want you to have it."

or

"I really, really like you."
"I don't want a boyfriend."
"Why?"
"Because I don't.  I don't need to give you an answer."
"But you can change your mind."
"No, I won't.  I feel uncomfortable being your friend.  Please don't call me anymore."

These interactions seem very harsh, but they are absolutely necessary.  Men and women, here, are not friends.  That is a foreign concept to them.  So saying the classic Let's just be friends line just has the opposite effect.

My roommate, Rose, and I even went to a local restaurant today for a quick bite.  Within 2 minutes of sitting down, 5 men, one-by-one, came to our table to sit down, absolutely uninvited.  The first two plainly stared at us until the next couple sat down and started a conversation.  But it was obvious that the attention we were getting had to do with this idea that mzungu women are better to be with.  It is a sad power dynamic that makes me on edge and a little bit cranky.

I sound a bit jaded with the local men because I am.  They are quick to start a conversation, quick to fall in love and not too easy to reject.  Being on the defense all of the time, unfortunately, takes its toll.  

On a lighter note, I have bought my ticket to the United States on Aug. 8 and will be return to Arusha, Tanzania to teach at St. Constantine's International School on Aug 25 for two years!  This decision was made  because of the two things I know most at this moment:

1- I need to earn real money.
2- I don't want to teach in the states any time soon.

So, Arusha, Tanzania, here I come!  Just a little background, Arusha is the closest city to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, both of which are stunning.  The Lion King was solely based on the Serengeti.  Here are some pictures from Google of the Serengeti:



Is the Lion King theme song playing in your head?  Because it's playing in mine.